A New Rythm

Looking For a New Rhythm

“I have to start looking for a new rhythm” – Henri Nouwen, Gracias!


Although taken out of context, the above quote accurately describes my journey throughout this month. I have had to start looking for a new rhythm in food, conversation, and schedule. I have found this search for a new rhythm challenging, exciting, tiring, eye-opening, filling (literally filling my stomach with food!), joyful, and fun!


Food
Seeing as walking through grocery stores is one of my favorite things, and with thanksgiving approaching, I will start off with food. Argentines like to eat and find any excuse to get together with friends for a fiesta.
Asado. The majority of fiestas begin with a traditional Argentine asado. I have had the opportunity to go to various asados throughout the last 2 months with the Foresti family. An asado is a little bit like what we would consider a barbeque in the US. Various cuts of meat are bought from a carniceria (a butcher shop often with various parts of a cow hanging in the window) and prepared to be cooked on the parilla. A parilla is a large grill which often looks like a large fireplace built in the yard. The meat is cooked for about 2 hours and when the asado is ready, family and friends often sit at a long table equipped with steak knives, wine, salad, and bread. Asados are as much about socializing as they are about eating and usually go well into the afternoon and evening before coming to a close!
Dulces. Argentines love their sweets and I recently read that the country of Argentina consumes the most sweets per capita than any other country in the world. One of the most popular dulces consumed is the alflajor , two soft sugar cookies held together by dulce de leche, chocolate, or fresh jam. Alflajores are sold everywhere and anywhere from top restaurants to trains and buses. Cookies are also a staple at any event, trip, class, afternoon tea, breakfast, or midnight snack. Most grocery stores have a whole isle dedicated to cookies and if you are invited into a house for coffee, tea, or mate, you will most likely be offered and encouraged to eat your fair share of cookies. Helado, or ice cream is also a widely-enjoyed treat year-round. I have yet to walk more than three blocks without passing a heladeria and be tempted by the numerous flavors of home-made ice cream. Yum.
Mate. Mate is one of my favorite traditions of Argentine culture. Mate is more than just a drink, it is a cultural ritual that is shared among family, friends, coworkers, and strangers. Yerba mate is a herb grown in the northern region of Argentina and is widely consumed in Argentina, Uruguay, and Paraguay. To drink mate, the cebador (server) fills a hollowed-out gourd with yerba and then fills the gord with hot water. The mate is then passed clockwise around the room and drinkers drink the yerba through a bombilla, a silver straw with a filter at the bottom to prevent the yerba from entering the tube. The mate is passed back to the server after each drink and is refilled with water for the next person. Argentines consume on average of 5kg of mate each year and are, for lack of a better word, mate-fanatics. In my daily activities I see people drinking mate on buses and trains, in cars and parks, and when walking down the street with friends. The majority of argentines own atleast one thermos and mate gourd and it is very common to see people walking down the street with their thermos tucked under their arm. I am often struck at what a beautiful expression of community I see in the ritual of drinking mate.

Conversation
Besos. The first day I spent at the community center, around 30 students from a neighboring school came to help re organize the library. When they arrived they walked in single file and greeted me (before even knowing my name) with a kiss on the cheek. Instead of shaking hands when meeting or greeting, argentines kiss each other on the right cheek when entering or leaving a room. Family members and friends (both male and female) are also very affectionate in their everyday interactions.
Te Sirvo?. The hospitality I experience each day here continues to humble and amaze me; and is something concrete that I hope I can continue when I return home. From my experience, the majority of households, businesses, and community spaces are ready and expectant to receive visitors. There is also coffee and tea on supply as well as some type of cookie or snack. Visitors (announced or unannounced) are usually warmly welcomed and offered something to drink and eat as well as time for conversation. One thing I have had to get used to is offering to serve others, te sirvo? , before I refill my glass or plate. After a weekend of unexpected visitors I now realize how important it is to be prepared to openly welcome people into your home at any time (i.e. Keep the kitchen, dining area, and bathroom CLEAN!).
Personal Space. The idea of “personal bubble” does not exist in Argentina and I have quickly gotten used to that bubble being popped. When waiting in line, you should be touching the person in front of you to keep your spot. When getting on the bus you should not only be touching the person in front of you, but also gently encouraging them to continue moving forward to the last person to get on is not hanging out of the door.

Schedule
Comida. The hours that people eat are quite different from those in the US and have taken some getting used to. Desayuno or breakfast usually consists of a cup of coffee and some cookies or crackers and is eaten at similar hours to the US. Almuerzo , or lunch is eaten around 1 or 2pm and is usually the largest meal of the day. Depending on the context, lunch can go on for various hours as Argentines enjoy conversing around the table. Cena, or dinner is what has taken some getting used to. Dinner usually is not served until 8pm or later. There have been nights where we begin to eat at 11:30 and don’t finish until 1am.
Siesta. When I first arrived in Jose C. Paz, I asked about when the safest times to be walking alone and was told I should try to stay off of the streets between 1 and 5pm. At first I thought this was crazy-why would I need to be inside in the middle of the day? I quickly found out that in this area of the Provincia, the majority of stores close from about 1 to 5pm, leaving the streets empty of pedestrians and store-keepers. The only thing I have had to adjust for the hours of siesta is when I do my grocery shopping!
Fiesta. My first weekend in Jose C. Paz, I went to a birthday party with Omar and his family for a girl who was turning 15. We left when the party was just getting going….around 4:30 am. I was surprised to see people from 2 years old to 70 or 80 on the dance floor at this hour and was even more surprised to find out that the birthday cake wasn’t served until around 6am. Argentines of all ages stay up late. Since my first weekend, I have been to many birthday parties in which the cake is not served until after midnight. On the weekdays when I am invited to eat dinner often we do not finish until 1am even though everyone has school and work in the morning. Maybe this is why Argentines drink so much coffee and mate!